The fun of nightlife in Málaga is wandering (although a few destinations do stand out). More than just about any other city in the region, Málaga offers night owls the chance to stroll a labyrinth of inner-city streets, drinking wine at any convenient tasca, and talking with friends and new acquaintances.

We suggest that you start out along the town's main thoroughfare, Calle Larios, which runs adjacent to the city's port. Off Calle Larios, you can gravitate to any of the tascas, discos, and pubs lining the edges of the Calle Granada. Of particular interest, in terms of the fun and atmosphere you're likely to find inside, are Bar Pimpil, Calle Granada s/n (no phone), and La Posada, Calle Granada s/n (no phone).

We'll let you in on a secret: If you want to eat well and cheaply, do as the locals do and head for either or both of the taverns below. Although nothing is refined, the food is some of the finest in Málaga, and some of the least expensive. You can easily fill up on two or three orders of tapas because portions are extremely generous.

The entrance to Bar Logüeno, Marín García 9 (tel. 95-222-30-48), is behind a wrought-iron-and-glass door. It leads into a stucco-lined room decorated in a local tavern style with a vengeance. There are enough hams, bouquets of garlic, beer kegs, fishnets, and sausages to feed an entire village for a week. However, there's hardly enough room to stand, and you'll invariably be jostled by a busy waiter shouting "Calamari!" to cooks in the back kitchens.

Nearby, an all-pedestrian street, Calle Compagnía, and a square, the Plaza Uncibaj, are home to simpler tascas. Completely unpretentious (and in some cases without any discernable name), they serve glasses of wine and tapas similar to those available from their neighbors.

Two popular dance bars are Saloma, Calle Luis de Velázquez s/n, and Cosa Nuestra, Calle Las Lazcano 5. Don't even think of heading to either before 11pm, but once you're there, the music will probably continue till at least 4am.